Phnom Penh has become more “expensive” but it’s still possible to distend your stomach for less than $2 US and stay in a “nice” hotel for less than $20 US a night. It’s all relative and I happen to love Phnom Penh; a city with lots to do, see, hustle, bustle and lovely people. The remaining French influence also insures fabulous crusty bread and good wine.
We have almost “thoroughly” – not one ever has time to see and do everything – explored Phnom Penh on previous trips and intended to just walk around the waterfront, visit a few markets and try not to keel over from jet lag. If this is your first trip to Cambodia, what I think are the most important “must see” are listed below:
expect to see two, three and even four persons on a motorbike in Cambodia
selling fruit, Cambodian style
#1 – The Royal Palace. This complex of buildings is generally understood to be the royal abode of the King of Cambodia. Originally a citadel from 1393-1463, it was rebuilt in 1886, when King Norodom (1834-1904) moved his royal capital from Oudong to Phnom Penh. Visitors can enter the Throne Hall where coronations and official ceremonies take place, admire Stupas, pavilions and the stupefying, Silver Pagoda!
Never mind the exquisite outside, it’s what is inside that will blow your mind. More than 5,300 pieces of silver tiles cover the floor of the Silver Pagoda that collectively weigh over six tons. Gold headdresses made for the royal dancers, solid gold Buddha statues in different forms, small Buddha images studded with diamonds, and a 90 kilogram/198 pound solid gold statue of Buddha which also covered with 2,086 diamonds, the largest of which is 25 karats. Good grief!
partial map of Phnom Penh, Cambodia
#2 – Toul Sleng Genocide Museum. When the Khmer Rouge regime came to power, they converted this high school into the S-21 prison and interrogation facility. Inmates were systematically tortured to extract confessions, after which they were executed at the killing fields of Choeung Ek. Out of the 17,000 people processed here, less than a dozen survived. The building now serves as a museum and memorial. It is located on the corner of Street 113 and Street 350. What can I say?
#3 – The Killing Fields (Choeung Ek) are located 15 kilometers/9.3 miles south of Phnom Penh and is another horrifying memorial to the inhumanity of man. It was used by the Khmer Rouge regime as an execution ground by soldiers who killed many of their victims by smashing them on the head. Thousands of people were killed between 1975 and 1979 and it was only when the Khmer Rouge regime fell that mass graves containing thousands of bodies were discovered. Now a memorial, a Buddhist stupa with acrylic glass sides is filled with more than 5,000 human skulls. Visits to both places are heart-wrenching.
#4 – Wat Phnom. Located on a small hill in the northeastern section of the city, legend says: a wealthy widow retrieved a large tree trunk from the river to use for a house, but found four statues of the Buddha inside. She erected a small shrine to revere the statues which then became a sacred site. The large stupa immediately west of the sanctuary contains ashes of the late king and there are numerous other shrines and activities on or at the base of the hill. When we first visited, there were elephant rides available (the elephant wore clogs, seriously) and monkeys begging for handouts but guide Heng said that they are no longer there. What? No monkeys?
one of Phnom Penh’s many Buddha images and “Wats”
What else to see and do?
– Walk up and down Sisowatch Quay along the riverfront to browse pubs, restaurants, cafes shops and galleries.
– Dress as an Apsara and have your photograph taken.
– Get a massage anywhere but especially at Seeing Hands Massage from trained, blind masseurs. Do some good for them and yourself at the same time.
pineapples were luscious and sweet in Cambodia
– Eat! I have only a few recommendations, all along Sisowatch Quay. The FCC Restaurant (expensive), Quay and Blue Pumpkin. Quay had a special for $7 US which included glass of wine, and good portion of stir fried chicken with peanuts and rice. Don’t leave Phnom Penh without sampling luscious ice cream at Blue Pumpkin. There is a Blue Pumpkin in Siem Reap as well.
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